The frost sits like gunite in the fields leading down to the bog. The sun has just crawled up over the treetops to the south and casts its strong light on the jet-black bodies. As many as 140 cattle are standing in the fields outside Finderup Lade. All of them are Angus. And several of them have won prizes. In the housing, in their own enclosure, are eight calves. Denmark’s only genuine ‘Black’ Wagyu calves, who were all born last year around midsummer.

Collaborating with the chef
Together with Friland and the chef Francis Cardenau, Søren Vester started establishing Denmark’s first Wagyu herd in autumn 2005.

The meat really is special. The fat marbling is completely unique and produces a meat which explodes the scale for succulence, flavour and tenderness. And this is why it produces world-class meat – also in terms of price, explains Søren Vester, who has decided to supplement the concentrated feed with mash from Viborg brewery, whole-crop barley and silage, which has helped to ensure optimum growing conditions.

An expensive thoroughbred steak
In about 20 months, the first steak will be served at the Copenhagen restaurant Umami, which is owned by Francis Cardenau, among others. But Søren Vester is unwilling to hazard a guess as far as the price is concerned.

Normally a good steak costs about DKK 1,200 here in Denmark. But that is meat that comes from a cross between Angus and Wagyu. So I dare not try and predict what the final price will be for a genuine Japanese thoroughbred Wagyu.